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Aerial view of the north coast of Zanzibar: turquoise water, a white sand beach and beach hotels in warm evening light
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Kendwa or Nungwi: where to stay in north Zanzibar

4November

You've decided on the north of Zanzibar. Good choice – this is where the island's famous turquoise water meets sunsets over the sea. Now comes the tricky bit: Kendwa or Nungwi? The two beaches sit only a few kilometres apart on the same stretch of coast, but they feel surprisingly different. Here's our honest, slightly biased (we live in Kendwa, after all) guide to help you crack this coconut.

The short answer

  • Choose Nungwi if you want buzz: lots of restaurants, beach bars, dive shops and a real village with fishing dhows and history right on your doorstep.
  • Choose Kendwa if you want a wide, calmer beach where you can swim at almost any time of day, with a big party only once a month.

And the good news: they're close enough that you can easily enjoy both.

Tides: the thing nobody tells you

Zanzibar's tides are dramatic. On many beaches, especially on the east coast, the sea pulls back so far at low tide that swimming simply isn't possible for hours.

The north is the exception. In Kendwa the seabed drops off quickly, so you can swim at almost any time of day, whatever the tide is doing. Nungwi is good for swimming most of the day too, but at low tide the sea pulls back further there, leaving wider stretches of sand and shallow flats – especially around Ras Nungwi, the island's northern tip, and on its east side. Great for long beach walks, less great if you planned a dip at exactly that moment.

Tip: check a tide table before you plan your beach days, wherever you stay.

Atmosphere and nightlife

Nungwi started as a backpacker favourite and has grown into one of Zanzibar's busiest beach areas, with hotels, hostels, bars and restaurants lining the shore. Many places stay open late, especially at weekends, and it can be crowded. Beach sellers offering tours and souvenirs can be persistent – a friendly "hapana, asante" (no, thank you) goes a long way.

Kendwa is more laid-back. The beach is wide, the resorts are more understated, and most evenings are about sundowners rather than dance floors. The big exception is the famous Full Moon Party at Kendwa Rocks, which draws people from all over the island about once a month. The next dates are 21 November, 25 December and a New Year's Eve party on 31 December 2026. Love a party? Plan your stay around it. Need your sleep? Also plan around it. 😉 (2027 dates follow in our full-moon article.)

Stay in Kendwa, swim at any tide, and visit Nungwi when you're in the mood for some buzz.

Sunsets

Both beaches face west, so both serve up the kind of sunsets that make everyone reach for their phone at the same time. From Kendwa you look out over the sea towards the small islands off the coast, including Tumbatu. Our advice: be on the sand by late afternoon, find a spot, and let the sky do the rest.

People in silhouette on Kendwa beach under a palm frond at sunset, with a dhow on the horizon

Things to do in Nungwi

Even if you stay in Kendwa, Nungwi is worth an afternoon:

  • Dhow builders: Nungwi has long been a boat-building and fishing village. Shipwrights still build wooden dhows by hand on the beach, and at dusk you can watch the boats head out for night fishing.
  • Ras Nungwi lighthouse: the island's oldest lighthouse, from the 1880s, stands at the northern tip. It's closed to visitors, but the view from outside is great.
  • Mnarani turtle pond: a community conservation project where injured sea turtles are cared for in a natural tidal lagoon, with a hatchery for green turtles.
  • Diving and snorkelling: Nungwi has several dive centres, and boat trips go to Mnemba Atoll, widely seen as Zanzibar's best spot for snorkelling and diving, often with dolphins on the way.

Getting there

The north coast is about 60 km from Stone Town and the airport. From Stone Town to Nungwi, allow about 1.5 to 2 hours by car; from the airport to Kendwa it's about 1.5 hours. We can arrange a taxi from Zanzibar airport for USD 50. Kendwa and Nungwi are only a short drive apart – and growing closer every year – and at low tide many visitors simply walk along the beach between the two.

Where Cocohut Zanzibar fits in

We're a small guesthouse in Kendwa, about 600 m (an 8–12 minute walk) from Kendwa Beach – close enough for an early swim, far enough to sleep well on full-moon night. We're honest about it: we're not on the sand, we're in the neighbourhood.

One more honest tip: power cuts are very common in Zanzibar. We're completely off the grid, running on solar power with battery backup, so the lights, fans and WiFi keep going when the neighbourhood goes dark.

What you get instead: four spacious en-suite rooms with rain showers, air conditioning and a fan, king-size beds, a desk and free WiFi, plus a fully equipped shared kitchen, a lounge and a small garden chill area. From 1 December 2026, our second house, Cocohut Zanzibar II, opens with five more rooms. Our host Maso and the team are happy to help with tips for Nungwi, the turtles or the best sunset spot.

A Cocohut Zanzibar room with woven pendant lamps and textured cushions on a king-size bed
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